The Mont Paon Castrum

Hiking distance : 13 km ; Hiking time : 4 h
Chapelle de St-Jean
Chapelle de St-Jean

This loop starts from a parking spot on the D33a and passes by the Montpaon castrum, a ruined medieval church called St Peire d’Entremont and the St-Jean chapel.

What to see

The castrum has been the object of archeological digs and remains an active research site belonging to the Bouches du Rhone department. Various sources indicate the main period of occupation around the 11th-13th century, but it is safe to assume that the site would have been used as a lookout position from earliest times. The site overlooks the western end of the Alpilles hills and is in visual contact with the chateau at Les Baux de Provence. Continue reading “The Mont Paon Castrum”

From Barre to Col du Rey

Hiking distance : 9 km ; Hiking time : 3 h
barre rocheuse/rocky outcrop
barre rocheuse/rocky outcrop

Barre-des-Cévennes sits under a rocky outcrop (possibly the origin of the name) on the major drainage divide between the Mediteranean and the Atlantic. At the start of the walk, on leaving the village, the Atlantic waters are on the right where the Malzac stream is visible in the picturesque valley below. On the left, but less visible far below, are the headwaters of one of the Gardon river branches in the Vallée Française. This walk clings to the side of the Can Noire plateau before reaching the Col des Faisses and then runs parallel to the old royal highway now known as the “Corniche des Cévennes”. About one kilometre further on, views over the Tarnon valley to the imposing cliff faces of Causse Méjan start to appear.

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Exploring the “plans inclinés”

Hiking distance : 9, 10, 15, 11 and 10 km ; Hiking time : 3 to 4 1/2 hours

information panel at les Pinèdes
info panel a the Pinèdes tower

Just north-west of Alès, these five different walking routes explore the ruins and visible remains of the “plans inclinés”, a nineteenth century mountain rail transport system built to move coal from the remote Broussous valley to a railhead in La Levade. The network was operated between 1859 and 1867, just 8 short years before being abandoned (and then swiftly dismantled) in favour of conventional rail transport. (read about the system here.) The area covered by these walks includes the Broussos valley, the mountain pass at Portes, the Pereyrols ridge above La Vernarède, the Pinèdes valley and the Luminières valley.
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Graveyard sheet steel

cemetary in La Vernarède
cemetary la Vernarède
According to different sources the little used french word “cabistous” is a regional term used in the Ardèche department meaning lean-to, small cabin or garden shelter. In the coal mining area around Alès, in the 19th century, many “ardechois” came to work in the booming coal industry. Towns were created where none existed before, and the ardechois settled in, bringing their regional expressions and their families.

In the mining industry, sheet steel was readily available, but marble gravestones would have been costly for modest families. As a result, many cemeteries (eg. those in Portes and in La Vernarède) contain small sheet steel structures standing over family burial plots. These structures were called “cabistous”. Some were very finely decorated, while others remained simple and basic. Many have been abandoned by the families who have no doubt left the mining area to seek fortunes elsewhere.
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